I have a 2.1 acre pond in NC. The pond has been there for a long time. How long I am not sure. Probably more than 20 years at least. When I bought the property a few years ago the feeder streams would drop sediment from neighboring farms into the pond when the fields were plowed in the fall through to spring planting in late March. In order to correct the sediment issue I build a series of sediment basins protecting the pond from the feeder streams and rerouting the water around the pond. Below is a satellite image of the pond.



As you can see there are a series of 3 sediment basins on the north side of the pond. 2 of which catch 2 feeder streams and then send the water to sediment basin #4. Sediment basin #4 catches the third feeder stream and then takes the water around the pond and drops the water past the main pond's dam. The pond is now fed by a hill abutting the pond on the east side of the pond which is thickly forested. The water does not flow down the hill. It generally percolates through the soil into the pond.








As you can see from the pond pictures below, the color of the water in the pond is distinctly different from the sediment basins.








There are 3 aerators running in as you can see from the pictures above. In general I have been running the aerators for about a month at 2-3 hours per day.

There is about 1 foot of muck on the bottom of the pond.

Water quality that is percolating in from the hill on the east side is good as shown in the photo below.



[img]http://apps.easternservicesllc.com/pond/pond13.jpg[/img]

Water quality in general is very green with perhaps a hint of brown in it which may indicates some suspended clay.

[img]http://apps.easternservicesllc.com/pond/pond14.jpg[/img]

I have used algaecide and alum in the past to treat the problem but in general the green color returns in a couple weeks if not sooner. This, of course, can get very expensive.

My feeling is that the pond is too green especially given that we are still in the colder months. Many ponds in the area that show much more planktonic and filamentatious algae in the summer months than mine are much clearer in the winter.

Thoughts?

My first thought is the aerators are keeping some sediment in suspension, and the rest of the coloring is life. Excellent job by the way in diverting that chocolate milk away from the pond!

Thanks, it took a long time to get it right where the ditches and basins would handle the flow in a heavy rain.

I agree with you I think there was a layer of green and brownish water in the lower third of the pond that was disturbed by the aeration. From my research the aeration should change the chemistry of the pond by distributing oxygen throughout the layers. Not being a scientist I am not sure I am going in the right direction. Should I increase aeration to 24/7 and let the oxygen do its thing and will this have a positive effect over time? Do I have enough aeration?
My instincts also tell me that the addition of algaecide and alum, while having a short term positive effect may have created a better environment for the planktonic algae to over mass produce.
I would like to get the water to a state where the water chemistry remains stable and clarity to perhaps 24". Not sure if that is possible.
There are a lot of fish in the pond. I stocked it about 2 years ago and there were already fish in it. I have never had a fish kill so that is good.
Maybe I am obsessive. This pond thing can be such a diversion. When the spring comes the basins fill with plants. The frogs are so loud they hurt the ears. It turns into this wonderful ecosystem full of all sorts of life. I find it fascinating.

Thank you for your response,
Paul

Beautiful place and ingenious management of sediment flow.

Have you made or purchased a Secchi disk to make a standardized measurement of water quality? If you do that, then one of the experts here (I am not one of them) can help you better.

Thank you Bocomo,
I will look into that. Do I need to do anything else. Measure ph for instance?

Paul

The water looks ok to me. Very normal for a fertile pond. You need to do visibility tests as noted above. Aeration can and often does make a lake more productive for several reasons (more O2 , more nutrients in suspension). What is the water temp when the color starts getting green ? Soil tests of the lake bottom and water tests will help id nutrient levels.

Thank you Ewest,

The water, in my opinion, is pretty green throughout the year. Pond never froze this year. Maybe a thin layer of ice on partial surface for a day or two during the polar vortex. I will do the visibility test.

What kind of soil tests and water tests should I do? How do I get them done?

Paul

See this from the archives.

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=92617#Post92617

This thread too

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.ph...true#Post356237

And this also

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.ph...true#Post290127

Have you ever measured the alkalinity and or water hardness to determine if the pond chemistry favors phytoplankton growth? Nutrient rich ponds will grow phytoplankton year round as long as enough nutrients are present to feed the bloom. In these nutrient rich conditions, what changes season to season are the species that are present creating the bloom which is often reflected in the hue of the water.

Water color looks similar to my 3 acre nutrient rich pond this time of year. BTW those sediment ponds would make great minnow breeding grounds for forage for the 2.1 ac pond. I raise Gambusia minnows in my sediment ponds and feed them floating feed crushed around the edges.

Thanks, I guess having the water checked is the next step. There is a place right in Raleigh according to the web search that I just did. That works. I will take it there next week and report back.

I couldn't find any place to test the pond bottom but I will ask the lab when I drop off the water. It is at NC State so I am guessing it is part of the big agricultural school.

Are nutrient rich ponds bad, good or just different? I am sensing from the comments that it is fine. Still, it seems very green to me.

Take soil samples with you just in case. I have them done for me at the place that sells bulk fertilizer and lime to farmers here. Just bring in a sample, they bag it and send it off.

Many ponds are nutrient rich ! Visibility readings will let you know if its ok . Those with soil and water test results are an excellent start. Every pond is different so there will be a learning curve. Data is the basis of all learning. We can help you through the process.

Paul, the people at NC State can definitely help you. There are fairly cheap kits that you can get to keep up with your water chemistry. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/nreos/wild/fisheries/

I own several 7 ponds 20-25 miles east of Raleigh ranging from 1-7 acres and I take care of one of them. Maybe I didn't read enough of the thread but why do you run your aeration 2-4 hours per day instead of full time? Full time can do nothing but help, especially in warmer weather.

I did use chemicals in my pond for years but I found that bacteria and colorant works much better and they are more friendly water and animal. They don't work hand in hand...chemicals and natural! Your pond doesn't look bad to me in that photo....maybe some clarity and some color would help. There are tons of brands of bacteria and colorants and I'd think most work fairly well. I was berated last year in this forum for telling what I use...like I was spending a fortune or like I worked for the company....and I named 2 companies and I use others. The pond I really look after is 2.5-3 acres and I spend about $100-150 per month from April through October with colorant and beneficial bacteria. I've bought my products from Agri-Supply in Garner, Tractor Supply in 3 towns inc. Kightdale, Franklinton and Smithfield and from http://www.organicpond.com/ , a company I found online after looking at several...they are out of Michigan I think? I generally buy 4-6 gallones of their products at a time for the cheaper price and generally apply 1 gal. every 4-6 weeks. I also use Bioverse spheres near my aeration from either of the stores nearby. Now that is high for the gallons treated but it was my first go-to before ever looking it up or this website and I have stuck with 1 - 500,000 sphere dropped at my aeration bubbles for disbursement. I like using either Midnight blue or any blue such at Bayou or Aquablue with the pure black colorant from Organic Pond. Last week i used 1 gallon of Pure Bac., 1 sphere, 1 gallon of Blue Bayou and 1/2 gal. of Pure Black....there pond looks and is in great shape. That color combination make a pleasing and more natural look to the water than all blue which looks artificial. Not only does the pond look good but you're helping the Grass Carp with staying in control of plants. I put my aeration in about 10 years ago and it helps but 4 years ago I went to natural products and the pond has been near perfect and the fishing is great...better than ever! I don't keep up with my time...I just watch the pond conditions. 4-6 weeks is when my treatments generally occur and the first is critical for staying ahead of the game. Best of luck! Chris in Pilot, NC