My 2 acre pond was half taken over by parrots feather in 9 months. In response, I researched this problem for months. I finally decided my best approach would be 2, 4 D mainly b/c an overwhelming majority of the info on the web favors 2,4 D in controlling M. Aquaticum. I contacted a sale rep with a chemical company and he instructed me to use Rodeo (glyphosate). He basically stated 2, 4 D would remain in the soil whereas glyphosate is inert and thus a healthier option for my family and the environment. Also, several farmers in my community spoke highly of glyphosate and cautioned against 2,4 D. What is more, the chemical rep said the EPA was in the process of changing labels on many aquatic herbicides that utilize 2, 4 D.

Therefore I decided to use Rodeo, a surfactant, and a blue dye (mainly for marking the areas I sprayed). The rep told me the dye would keep the glyphosate "active" for a longer period. I sprayed the area on March 20th of this year. About 10 days later 95 percent of the M. Aquaticum was black or dark brown on the emergent foliage.

On April 2nd I began pulling the blackened dead foliage out of the water, root and all. What I discovered was that the stem below the water was still green and appeared healthy or at least alive. I decided instead of getting frustrated I would just continue to rip out the parrots feather by the roots. I am making great progress after several days. I am about half done. The M. Aquaticum is rooted from the shore to about 5-7 feet out. After that the M. Aquaticum basically consists of non rooted mats which I drag in with the big tooth lake rake. WHAT AN ALIEN LOOKING PLANT!!! Its like a sci-fi movie or something. Not to mention, I am dodging snakes, turtles, leaches, water spiders, etc. The immediate results look great especially compared to the dead blackened foliage resulting from the Rodeo treatment.

I find it amusing when I read advice suggesting not to let any loose fragments get away...its a 2 acre pond with an acre of M. Aquaticum, it happens man, it happens. But I have been diligent nonetheless. Obviously there are some fragments that I did not notice still out there and capturing everything will be nothing short of impossible. In fact, the boy helping me stuck his hands down in the mud and pulled up M. Aquaticum roots that I overlooked.

Once most of the visible vegetation is removed, should I stock say 20 carp to eat whatever is left? I know, I know, carp don't care for M. Aquaticum but like someone said on a previous post, "if its the only game in town..." Or should I ignore the warnings of the chemical rep and the surrounding farmers and use 2, 4 D pellets on the left over roots I missed? Or will this make my kids and I desperately ill or give us lifelong illness, shorten our lives, etc. I do notice based on what I've read on this site most folks really don't hesitate to pour any old chemicals in their ponds.

And lastly, will the carp eat duckweed too? If not what works on that? Is there something that works on duckweed and M. Aquaticum roots that won't kill us?

20 carp 11 to 14 inches at 20 bucks a pop is about 300 dollars. But, not shortening my life through exposure to 2, 4 D is priceless not to mention my family (beyond priceless). And to think I moved to the country to get away from chemicals! LOL!!!

I am getting a bit frustrated b/c a lot of info on the net contradicts itself.

I had no idea a pond could be so difficult.

My 1 acre pond was full of Eurasian milfoil and I found pulling it was futile. The research I did said that Eurasian milfoil wasn't a preferred plant for grass carp but I did put in 6 GC the first year and noticed some spots of Eurasian milfoil were starting to thin out. I put in 12 more the second year and in four years the milfoil was gone. Getting a balance of GC is the trick for me since I want some vegetation. I had a winter fish kill two years and so I am starting from scratch. I have Curly Pond Weed starting to get out of control so I have 6 GC coming in three weeks then I will see how things look this fall and next spring and decide if I need to add more. Before my GC died some had grown to three feet in 12 years.

If you don't want any plants in the pond, research fluridone (Whitecap/Sonar A.S.) if you don't have water moving thru your pond (water flow in and out).

It won't be cheap, but it wipes out all the plants in the pond, duckweed/watermeal included. It's not an overnight kill, plan on 30-90 days if the concentration is kept at the proper levels.