New pond owner here and anxious to make improvements. open to all feedback and suggestions.
goal: improve overall health of pond, add aeration, improve water clearity, control algae and weed growth, reduce muck, a pond to swim in and not just the dogs
*do not want to add any chemicals to pond only 100% organic treatment i realize the pond dye will have some element of chemical ok with that

-approx demensions 60ftx100ft
-depth: 1ft shallow end to approx 15ft-18ft deeper end pond gradually drops off depth wise from left to right in first picture to best describe the deeper portion it is a large round hole depths 15-20ft refer 2nd picture view deepend end to shallow end
-water clearity is approx 2-4 ft maybe little more
-bottom is muck with harder clay base from what i can tell from walking in it
-pond has had no maintance for at least 10yrs but seems rather healthy but again new to this

aeration system? suggestions? how many diffusers needed?
1. pondlyfe 1? 2.0cfm
2. pondlyfe 2? 2.0cfm
3. airplus 145XL? 3.5cfm
4. airmax PS10 1.7cfm or PS20 4.5cfm ?

is it possible to over aerate your pond? turn pond over to rapidly or too many times disturb water clearity. would possibly like to put aerator on a timer since overall size is smaller?

treatments: suggestions? if any?
not looking to add any chemicals to the pond at all only 100% natural organic

1.just add pondlogic ponddye plus with includes dye and pondclear?
2. pond logic clearPAC plus without algaecide which includes pond clear, ecoboost bacterica, pond dye and muckaway?

do i need to even use muckaway?
what am i possibly missing?

realize alot going on here again open to all feedback and recommedations thank you for your input
-an anxious new pond owner.

Holy smokers...now that's a list of questions right there .

Not qualified to answer but I wanted to say welcome aboard neighbor. Got any fish in there right now?

What part of Wisconsin are you in? Temperature range of ambient air and likely temperature range of water in pond, as well as how brutal and how long your winter conditions are determines how necessary aeration, pond dye, and 'chemicals' might be in a 1/10th acre pond.

Is there wind across the water much of the time or is it sheltered?

how did you determine depth of deepest spot? Actual measurement to muck layer using weighted line? It may be worth double checking depth as it will save you on your purchase of aeration equipment when the time comes and there is a big difference in dissolved oxygen in a true 20 foot hole in a northern pond compared to a measured depth of say 10-12' in the 'hole'.

Is there natural inflow of water, spring, groundwater, or runoff changing the water levels over the seasons?

appreciate that no fish unless you include the 2 retrieves that love their new pond

near green bay, wi
fairly sheltered i would say very windy days top algae does get moved around

depth- most scientific way i could think off..fishing pole...washer end of line using a slip bobber suggestions?

NO -Is there natural inflow of water, spring, groundwater, or runoff changing the water levels over the seasons?

So you were in a boat over the deep spot, you let the washer to the bottom, fixed the slip bobber at the water level when washer was at the bottom or something similar and then went back to shore and measured the line? If so, that should be fairly accurate.

How old is the pond? when was it dug if you know?

Do you have a way to know how stable the water level is from season to season or do you have to live there a few years to sort this out?

Do you have access to water (well, or pump) and electricity nearby?

How did you determine no fish? Visual? Fishing? Maybe it is a new pond that you recently had dug?

I learned from this forum that nearly all existing bodies of water seem to have fish (lots of good discussion on whether source of these fish is spontaneous eruption, Darwinian process, mid air drop from kingfisher, friendly neighbors emptying their buckets, riding on duck feet, etc) Many have drained down their pond or used chemicals to kill fish and were surprised at what was found. Not questioning validity of your statement, just curious as how you knew.

Any forage for future fish? Leeches, bugs, crayfish, minnows, snails, etc? A minnow net (wire mesh) on the bottom with bait might be a very cool experiment.

Finding a big crayfish population might change your plans for future vegetation control, or finding existing minnows, or sunfish might change your stocking plans too.

that is correct on method of measure

pond was dug 20yrs ago

aquired property last august 2015 i would say pond levels are up approx 8-12in currently from late summer til now

i have power and water with is off well both within 10ft of pond i believe previous owner was using aeration but not for at least 10yrs

no fish no crayfish no stocking plans in the immediate future

do i need to be concerned with aeration overkill meaning to much aearation or am i able to potentially just run the aerator on a timer thus half the time thanks

You are aerating for what reason? Your post says:

improve water clearity, control algae and weed growth, reduce muck, a pond to swim in.

Aeration is usually to support fish and the food chain that keeps the fish alive.

using it to keep water clear and bottom free of muck is a different skill set. THere are PB links that discuss creating a pond for swimming and not for aquatic life/fish, the goals are in many cases mutually exclusive. I'm not the person to talk to about swimming ponds.

The fear about aerating too much after a period of time of no aeration is usually to prevent a large mixing event of oxygenated and unoxygenated water or poorly oxygenated water (say in the deepest hole) But if there is no aquatic life that you would mind losing in the process you can crank up the aerators with no fears.

Usually this time of year with cool water there is no significant separation of oxygen rich and oxygen poor water so running aerators for longer stretches out of the gate is not as big of a concern.

If aeration hasn't been run in 10 years it would be good to be there when they first run to see how much 'rotten egg gas' is released at the outset of aeration.

If you have access to power and water and your goal is to have clear water and swim, then you may consider pumping it down, removing 20 years of muck, organic debris, confirming that you are happy with the bottom features (clay, bedrock, natural spring?) and refill.

If you have a lot of organic to remove through aeration, natural bacteria, etc it may take a while to remove the thick buildup.

I'm a pond newbie, just my initial thoughts.

aerial image of pond with very low water level