Pond is 175'x60' and 9' deep in the middle. Don't want to run power, yet.

Can I get some pros and cons on these type of systems and if you have an extra clue, I'll take it!


http://www.koipondfever.com/p-410-ows-4-leg-windmill-aeration-system.aspx

http://www.vertexwaterfeatures.com/britestar-solar-aeration

If you have grid power anywhere relatively close you can push air a long ways. You can trench in 1.5" - 2" black poly pipe and push air over 1,000'.

Have power about 500 or so feet away. Heavily forested area, with a path, lots of roots, but I do have a trencher.

Where would I get the kind of black poly pipe you'd use for this?

The black poly is available at most any big box store like Menard's, Lowe's or Home Depot...or any farm and home supply.

Agree - I'd take capital necessary for expensive solar unit and invest in electric install or air hose install. Solar and windmill don't work in some conditions when aeration is most critical - consecutive cloudy, windless days which can lead to fish kills due to algae bloom/crash DO plummeting.

I got mine at Lowe's in the well pump department (it's not located with the rest of plumbing supplies - go to the area where they have pressure tanks and well pumps for home wells). Can get 100' rolls.

On long runs you might want to check with a commercial plumbing supply house where plumbers go to get their supplies. The stuff is available in 500' rolls. From my research, it was just as cheap or cheaper to get mine from Lowe's. The advantage of the plumbing house and 500' roll is you do away with a lot of connectors. The smaller rolls are easier to handle and most of my runs were shorter. The well pump variety of the black plastic water pipe is available in two different grades. A lower pressure grade and a higher pressure grade (can't remember the pressures but one is like 65psi and the other is like 100 psi). While the lower pressure is more than adequate for pond air use, if the higher grade is not much more I would go with it. It is thicker and much less prone to "kinking" while handling.

You don't need to bury deep, but you want it deep enough so rodents don't get at it. They love to chew on plastic. You don't want them chewing on it or it will be a constant battle. Small mice can make small problematic holes in your new installation.

Something Esshup pointed out at some earlier time that I had not thought of but is a VERY good idea. He pointed out that expansion and contraction from summer to winter can cause the hose to pull apart at the joints. Be sure and use the connectors made especially for this pipe. They are longer than something you will find in the regular plumbing department. The connectors, adapters, tee's, L's etc will be located right where the pipe is. DOUBLE hose clamp the connections and I like to wrap them in electrical tape (clamps and all) before burying. You don't want this connection to pull apart under ground and try to find where you are loosing air later.

Just some tips to help you keep from having problems later.

DC, lots of questions before I am able to respond to your aeration questions based on experience in N.E. Texas.
Where are you located in Texas?
How old is your pond?
Is your 9 ft pond depth measured at full pool?
Are you in a drought prone area with fluctuating water levels?

I do not give advice but will share some 10 years experience with a bottom diffuser system, a 110 volt 1 hp surface aerator, and currently installing a 12 volt solar surface aerator.

The following link will provide much information based on my experience.
http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=397656



We get lots of good aeration advice on the forum but little based on regional experience.I partially agree with costs involving solar on large aeration systems but find solar systems feasable for small shallow ponds.

FWIW, a bottom diffuser aeration system alone will not prevent a fish kill under extreme drought conditions unless biomass can be careflly controlled.
I have found that a surface aerator can introduce more critcal O2 than a bottom diffuser system alone.
I have found that both systems running concurrently gives maximum O2 protection.
I have found that the economics of a small 1/4 hp surface is currently feasible.

Let me know if I can help – my solar knowledge comes from my freind and mentor Highflyer, who is setting new standards for solar pond aeration systems. He will likely respond to this post when time allows – he is very busy right now.
Good luck,
George Glazener

The black poly pipe often called irrigation pipe can be purchased in 500ft lengths, usually special order, thus eliminating numerous splices which do tend to restrict air flow.

Use PEX and crimp the connections if you have any. Not following on the black tape?

FWIW I was faced with a similar problem but only about 350 feet from electric. I chose to run electric to the pond instead of an airline. It costs a good bit more to do that for sure, but my thinking was I am probably going to want electric at the pond for other uses in the future anyway so just do the trenching job once.

Edit: FWIW Another option would be to bury the poly air line deeper and if you ever want electric at the pond at a later date, you can pull the wire thru the existing line and move the compressor to the pond.

Pex is good stuff. Used it when remodeled house. It will just be considerably more expensive, especially in the larger sizes.

The black tape is probably more psychological than doing any good. My idea was, I taped the hose clamp ends down tight against the pipe and taped the whole affair up good, hoping that having a stream lined unit if there was expansion from heating/cooling between seasons, the soil would not have as tight of grip in the clamps.

Probably not needed, but not much cost or effort either. Just the way I did it.

IMHO I would be leary of PEX for outdoor use without a protective sleeve (like a poly pipe), especially in a shallow run thru a forrested area. A tree root pushes it up where the sun can get to it and the UV rays will destroy it pretty quick.

Bill
Is pex like pvc when it comes to no liking UV rays?

Pat,

I am not an expert. FWIW My understanding is it is less resistant to UV than PVC. It is not recommended for any outdoor use where it may be exposed to the sun. Bury it deep for a run, no problem.

Ditto on the Pex not liking UV. When I researched it for my house I was told not to let it see any sun or it would degrade quickly over time.

I can get 1,000' spools of the black poly pipe, but they are very large in diameter!