Pond Boss Forums POND CONSTRUCTION Renovating a Pond or Lake? Siphon low and excavate silt/muck?

My pond is about an acre or a bit smaller in size, and it was made in the 50's and has a max depth of 8 feet in the middle and only 2 feet or less at the dam. The shallowness is due too build up of muck, because the pond is fed by a creek that flows out of field runoff. It should be 15 feet in the middle and 8 feet at the damn (weird design, right?) and i am wanting too maybe siphon the pond down and excavate around the areas exposed when siphoned down too make it about 8 feet all around, except for the spawning area. I do not want too drain the pond because it has provided many 8-11 pound LMB (great for Central IL?) with many bass seen with potential for a state record. I am hoping for help or ideas? I do not have a smaller pond too store fish caught if i must drain the pond, so any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

Might be risky to drain down the pond, unless you have an aerator in it.

I'm wondering if you'd be as well off in just excavating through the standing water. Good operators can "see" by feeling what the bucket is contacting. The muck you would remove would be more sloppy, but you'll need a flat area to pile it in anyway.

Bill

I've heard of a company that uses large filter bags and a pump to suck the muck out of ponds, but I don't know what it'd cost. I think it was on "Dirty Jobs" for one episode.

There is plenty of flat ground near the pond... What would be the risky part about siphoning it low? I may not be think my original plan through :P

I think the risk would be reducing the amount of water for the fish to live in, while the renovation was taking place and the reduced O2 levels that would result. I believe that's why the aeration part of the post was there.

I have no way of getting aeration too this pond unless I get a windmill, and still some of those require electricity..I cant afford too reroute power and buy the windmill aeration system... i have found a product called Natural Pond Cleaner that is said too slowly remove muck. I think Sanco Ind. makes it. any truth behind the claims or should I look elsewhere?

And sorry for not seeing the aeration part! I had a loooong day and was barely awake..... if you know what i mean. and i am not known for thinking some plans through thoroughly. Are there any people in Illinois you know of that may be able too come too the pond and help? or someone i could call or email for help?

I am putting together a chemical spray barge with dredging capabilities...I hope to have it operational this week....

IllinoisPondBass,

Hey IPB please tell me how your getting many 8 to 11 pound bass out of a 1 acre pond??? My pond is 1 acre and can't get close to that number! I would love to know if you have any tips you could share to get your bass that big in a 1 acre pond?? What are you feeding them. I am down here where there is a long growth season for bass so I would love to know some more insight with what your doing!!

Thanks,

IPB ,Besides the obvious risks you will take by lowering the pond level, changing the dynamics of a very successful trophy bass pond by doing anything may alter it forever. I WOULD THINK TWICE BEFORE TINKERING.iF IT AIN'T BROKE ...............!

RC51, I honestly do nothing special too the pond except perform what I call a "controlled bluegill overstock". I do not stock any new bass in it yearly, only about 100 fingerlings every two or three years, but i stock the recommended rate of BG and hybrid sunfish every year, plus 4-5 pounds of FHM. There is a strong food chain of insects for the bluegill and sunfish to eat on and they get decent sized so that they are big, but not too big for the bass too eat them. and also a lot of frogs for the bass as well. If you don't already, find a way too get a strong frog population at your pond. If you do all this, the system is basically just providing an AYCE buffet for the bass. Harvest bass and bluegill at the 5 pounds of bluegill to 1 pound of bass ratio. go with a 13-14 inch limit on the bass, never exceeding 18 inches. That is my system and if you have any more question PM me

The silt needs at least somewhat lowered because the main spawning area is getting almost too shallow for spawning

IPB,

there are plenty of companies that hydraulically dredge with either divers or floating dredges. This is normally much less disruptive than mechanically dredging with a excavator, etc. If you are brave and don't mind the hard work, you can do it yourself with a good 6 or 8" trash pump and some silt fence. If you want to talk to someone in IL, look up Sediment Removal Systems in IL or call Warren, the president direct at 815.341.0099.

There is a company called piranha that makes agitator pumps and very small dredges. The silt can be pumped into filter bags and left to de-water on the bank next to the pond. When dry, the bag is cut open and the dry silt can be excavated and hauled away. you may want to build silt traps at the inlet using silt fence or wattles. These act like little dams before the water gets to your pond where the water velocity is slowed and silt can settle out and then you would clean out the traps with a backhoe as they fill up, keeping the silt from reaching your pond in the future.

We had the same problem. Our pond, after many years, was filled with silt and weed growth. The muck and loss of depth made it unswimmable. The pond life was healthy so we wanted to preserve it as much as possible so our approach was to draw down the water, get rid of most of the muck (except in the middle), increase the depth, and add a dock. I documented this project in a photoshow, which you can see at the following link. We're very happy with the results. (NOTE: For best viewing, click on the full-screen button when the photoshow starts loading.)

Pond Renovation Project
http://www.photoshow.com/watch/PK8SR5Kd

Sam Robbins

Good video Sam..