I'm about to install aeration and have read almost everything here. Am I missing a post that details everything a new Aerator should know? If not, let this be the start. Here's what I think I've gathered and some questions:

- The way the pond gets air really isn't from the bubbles, it is from mixing the water - the air comes from the water/air interface being on the surface of the pond.
- It is useful to have deep and shallow diffusers. Number dependent on size of pond and shape.
- Once the pond turns over in the fall you don't need the deep diffuser. When exactly do you stop the deep one?
- If the deep diffuser ran in winter it would make the water too cold.
- The shallow diffuser is mostly to keep a hole in the ice in winter. If ice is not a big issue, should it be run? When and how long should it run?
- When starting it up, you run for 1 minute. If you don't smell sulfer, you can go to 2 minutes the next day. Increasing very slowly and only when no sulfur is smelled.
- It should run long enough to turn over the water 1-3 times a day. To keep it from getting hot in the summer, it should only be run at night when the air is cooler. Probably a max of 8 hours starting at something like 11pm.
- If it is summer and the aeration stops (breaks), the pond will stratify and may cause an issue if there are too many fish. (insert technical stratification link by Bill Cody). Timing to worry about is _ to _ days.
- In the spring, you should start the deep diffuser(s) when _____.

If there is PB article in a past issue, let me know! Sadly I don't keep them all.

I'm in Virginia with a 2/3 acre pond so I'm interested in answers for a climate that is hot in summer and cold in winter, but rarely has thick or long lasting ice. However, please add modifiers for norther and southern climates.

Thanks for your thoughts!

George