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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 11
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OP
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 11 |
We have a 3.6 acre sand pit that is 9' deep on one end with most of the lake (80%) 6 feet deep. How many and how large of aerators do we need. Thanks
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,135 Likes: 486
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,135 Likes: 486 |
In my opinion at a bare minimum you will need 1 diffuser per acre when the system is run 24/7 during water temps above 50F, so in your case I would say four diffusers. Each diffuser could be a dual or triple head unit. If you want to run the system 10-12 hrs per day and get a good water turnover per day, I think 7-9 diffusers would be best and operated by a 3/4hp compressor or two smaller 1/4-1/3hp units. Each single diffuser(1head) based on its size requires a minimum amount of air volume to operate it efficiently, often 1cfm.
Water body shape also plays a big role in how many diffusers are needed. The more round the pond the fewer diffusers that are needed from the minimum.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 11/17/18 02:46 PM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 11
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OP
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 11 |
I am very new to the aerator topic. So I have more questions.
The pond is basically rectangular in shape.
How does a person decide to run the unit all day or 1/2 day?
How many aerators can run on unit?
I don't have electricity to the edge of the pond, but I do have a barn with electricity about 80 yards away. Could I keep the pump at the barn and just pump air that far or is that too far to push it?
Is there a website or link to previous discussion or pond boss magazine article that describes how to determine when you aerate based on geographic location and time of year ect? Prior to becoming a PondBoss fan I though the purpose was to just add extra dissolved O2. I had no idea the it would help move water and also help break down the organic sludge at the base of the pond.
Thanks for the replies in advance.
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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,344 Likes: 101
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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,344 Likes: 101 |
I have only got one year of aeration experience under my belt, but my deciding factors on the hours that I run the systems is based on outdoor air temps and water temps. Being in Missouri and only having a 1/4 acre pond, I worry about over heating the pond water in the heat of the summer. So, I take temperature reading at 18" down and at 7 foot down and compare to the outside air temps. It's a bit tricky when the air and water temps are in the 80's, meaning that about 85 water temp is what I consider borderline too hot. I will gradually start the air up in the spring to 24 hours a day until the water temps get to the mid to upper 80's then start cutting it back to only run at night so that it reduces the amount of heat transfer during the day. Once fall hits, I start adding aeration back to the day time hours when the outside temps drop below 85. This period is a very short, it seems like fall comes in pretty fast and may not be yielding much benefit. Then as mid fall comes in, I reverse the thought pattern and try to maintain warmer water by reducing nighttime aeration. This can happen pretty fast too and benefits are questionable as well.
Note: the heating effect comes from the moving of the water to the surface where it can become more exposed to the sunlight/hot air temps (or cool night air depending on the season). More movement equals more heat transfer regardless of whether we are considering heating or cooling of the pond.
The reason I really question the benefits with the above concept during season transitions is because changing the aeration time schedules certainly affects the fish's feeding habits and their willingness to be caught on rod and reel. I ask myself if the fish would be better off with one fall time aeration change (like band-aid removal) compared to 2 or 3 gradual adjustments over the the coarse of the month?
Being in Nebraska, I suspect 24/7 summertime aeration may be what is called for and spring and fall transitions could likely be more abrupt compared to Missouri.
I have read that running air lines under ground is a good alternative compared to running electricity, but I have also read about condensation in the lines being a problem if the lines are not run with proper grading so that water condensation buildup can be avoided...frozen lines are not good.
Fish on!, Noel
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,381 Likes: 46
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,381 Likes: 46 |
Tucknducks - Not all that long ago I was sitting right where you are. I am still no expert, but I do understand the basics. Mr. Cody just hooked you up. There is a TON of knowledge in that post he just made. Should help you answer a lot of questions. For me, I just jumped in and started reading everything I could and it slowly started to make sense.
Of course, I still look at my water and all the time wonder WTH is going on! Lol
Keep This Forum Viable, Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,381 Likes: 46
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,381 Likes: 46 |
I will add one more thing that is VERY important to the aeration equation. BUDGET.
A lot of the time it seems folks' budgets determine the size of the system versus what the optimal setup would be. Sinking line isn't cheap, quality diffusers/bases aren't cheap and a pump to run several diffusers isn't cheap either. I still don't like to think about how much I have sunk into pumps and sinking line.
Keep This Forum Viable, Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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