Pond Boss Forums AERATION Systems questions Aeration start-up

I've read elsewhere in the archives that my aeration start-up will be a very gradual undertaking. Start @ 15 minutes, doubling run time each successive day, etc.

Obviously it is a matter of changing the environment gradually rather than suddenly, but why? (I have this silly need to understand exactly why I'm doing what I'm doing.)

Anoxic water at the bottom of the pond, typically has hydrogen sulfide gas in it. That is very toxic to fish. With a bottom aeration system, it takes that water and mixes it with the upper water column. A slow start-up will keep the toxicity levels down, and gradually mix all the water.

If your pond water gets below 40°F during the year, then the pond naturally turns over twice a year, once in the Spring, and once again in the Fall. I have started my aeration system up without the "15 minute and double it every day" rule when the surface water temp was in the low 40's in the Spring without any problems. (I use my pond for tests, I would never do that in a clients pond.) If the water was warmer than that, I wouldn't chance it, and I wouldn't chance doing it in the Fall unless the surface water was in the upper 30's and then it would be the winter diffuser only.

I never do a slow start up either as long as the pond isn't stratified. I feel some folks crank up their compressors far to early and keep them on far too late. With the exception of winter diffuser where you are just opening up a little water to let light in or blow off gases and create a higher D.O. area, what's the point in mixing the water naturaly if it's doing it naturally or the water column is saturated with oxygen?

Am I wrong?

I'm one of those who run my aerator early in the season till late fall and I do it for the beneficial bacteria mostly. They keep my pond clean and the muck down. I wish the bacteria thriving season was longer.

Thanks! I figured it was something to do with chemical/gas states in the water. We fortunately haven't had much of a problem with algae blooming and dying -yet. There still has to be quite a bit of organic crud on the bottom.

So if the pond is not icing over, it's not necessary to aerate during the winter months?

I'll be adding benniebacs in the spring, assuming it has to be warm in order for them to survive.

loretta, to extend the bacteria season consider using one that thrives in cold water like AquaFix Polar. This will work on the nutrient release that your current anaerobic bacteria are producing.If the goal is to lower N and P it does not have to be a warm water season to achieve that. Slide the correct amount under the ice once per month and done.

heartlander, Winter aeration will depend on several things, some listed below. Can you tolerate thin unsafe ice, what is your demand for DO in the winter months,high OM ponds may be candidates for winter aeration. Any problems in the past? Do you have stricly warm water fish, probably yes then try to keep the deeper areas above 39F and some aeration can send small ponds colder than that quickly.If no ice then in older ponds I still prefer to circulate in a shallow area "IF" Im not sure of the DO level. If your going to add beneficial bacteria when the water warms up see note to loretta.

Aquafix Polar? Benniebacs?

What temp is this Aquafix Polar supposed to be good down to Ted?

I wasn't aware of any bacteria that is active in cold water. Seems to go against the laws of nature.

Fill me in.

Temp range from 41F to 64F, 41 ish is where I normally find bottom water temps in ice covered ponds.Product is VitaStim Polar LM from AquaFix.(see label on our site under our Bacteria link on home page.) I think Keeton has a psychrophilic product also.If there is interest Ill see if Kevin Ripp President of AquaFix could chime in about specifics. Kevin did a PondBoss article last Nov/Dec 2012 about "whats happening" in cold water called "Winter Treatment of Ponds The Incredible Transformation" page 22. I think Nate is using some cold water bacteria also for another good reference.

And there's good research to back this up? No offense meant whatsoever but i still remain skeptical of these bacterias, and still maintain the bacteria gets credit where eliminating anoxic conditions via diffusers, breaking up stratification, should get more of the credit.

Cecil, I think so. Kevin does his research, and is tied in with University of Wisconsin, Madison somehow. We sell the same thing, and I use it in my pond. I haven't "tested" it, but I see less build up in the pond than pre-bacteria. Same aeration system.

Have made a contact on Landon at AquaFix and they will be onboard shortly. We got interested in these products when we started to see all the spirogyra under clear ice as early as December and especially after aeration shut down.I treat 16 ponds plus my two monthly with it from November to May and then switch to a warmer water product.I do very little FA control any longer with herbicides.I became interested in this as I had too much FA pressure early in the season prior to being able to stock tilapia because of temperature. I also had elevated ortho P and NO3 levels prior to aeration startup in the spring from where they had tested at aeration shut down.Still had the elevated levels with winter aeration and no bacteria. I realize its difficult to have a barometer to see where they may or may not be of value, especially with all bodies of water being a "one of a kind" I think the work in the waste water industry and the EPA monitored results have given some additional tools in pond and lake management with bacterial products. NOTE Post not meant to be a commercial.

Oh I think it's entirely possible this stuff works but with all the variables out there it would be easy to think it's doing more than it is, without identical ponds, precise water testing, controls etc.

Case in point: I used a bacteria product several years ago in the spring to combat FA, and low and behold not long after I applied it it disappeared and I was a believer! However after some careful observation I noticed that about the same time the FA disappeared Chara became the dominant aquatic vegetation due to increasing water temp. I soon realized that it was just a matter of the Chara out competing the FA due to a more favorable water temperature. Chara as most of us know is just another form of algae although it doesn't appear to be one.

Maybe it's just my personality but I'm also one of the last person's to buy into conspiracy theories.

Cecil, I'm a believer in beneficial bacteria. Before I had aeration and before I had my pond re-dug, my shoreline bottom was black. If you stepped in the pond your foot would sink very deep in muck. After a season of using bacteria (only) the shoreline bottom changed color and eventually looked like the original clay color again. I was sold. I was still getting FA though and I had my first winter fish kill. That's when I bought my aerator. After 20 years without aeration the initial startup was really stinky! I saw some improvement but I was still experiencing heavy FA that I was removing manually. I was impatient and didn't know if I could reverse 20 years of nutrient buildup and muck in the depths so I decided to re-dig.

My pond renovation was done in the Fall of 2010 and it filled up quickly. I regularly add bacteria and aerate during the night, I don't aerate in the winter. My pond bottom looks like it did when it was first dug and as of last spring there isn't a smell at start up. I had some chara the first summer, treated it with cutrine plus and aquashade but I couldn't get rid of it until my first algae bloom a year later, it just disappeared. I haven't had any FA at all, knock on wood but I also don't have any volunteer plant life either which isn't good. I don't know how long I will be enjoying a FA free pond but so far I can't complain.

Ted, this sounds good. The recommended temperatures are 41-64*F according to the pdf, if I put the packet in the shallows, won't the temperature be < 41*?

I'm guessing it's better to put the packet in different locations each month? Will I get similar results if I put it in the same area?

What is the shelf life? Store inside?

Thanks!

Loretta,

Thanks for the post. I'm becoming less skeptical.

YW. I should have mentioned that my pond is very small, 1/4 SA and I'm not getting much runoff contamination (now) either. I think it's easier to see changes in a smaller pond too. If I had a much larger pond the cost of bacteria might be more than I could afford.

Pond has been close to 3 yrs. Has bluegill and some LMB -I HOPE it still has LMB... so yes I would be concerned about super-cooling in winter if we're having a colder than normal spell. This current one has been such a winter. We are just far enough south to be clear of lake effect weather, so find the winters normally to be pretty mild in comparison (to where we lived before). Little ice, 30-deg. temp swings within 24 hrs., etc.

Thanks for the info on the bacteria. Maybe bacs won't be needed at all once things get circulating. Can't hurt, at any rate.

Loretta, The bacteria will disperse think of it like dye moves. It has a two year shelf life and just store where its dry as the water soluble bags dissolve readily with little moisture.In a pond less than an acre just get it wet it works. I apply it away from any outlet that is flowing. If I have a lot of outflow I cut the rate in half and apply evey 2 weeks instead.I will start my Febuary rounds starting Monday and appears I will have some serious ice to get thru in the non aerated ponds.

Microbial life has an incredible ability to not only live but thrive in a broad spectrum of environments. You can even find living bacteria metabolizing energy in the sediment from lakes buried under miles of ice in Antarctica.

The purpose of adding beneficial bacteria is the same as adding aeration in many cases. It is another tool to optimize the conditions for the microbial life and speed up the break down of excess organics.

The Aquafix Polar contains strains of beneficial bacteria that are designed to thrive in cold water environments. It also contains a blend of bio-stimulants that encourage the natural occurring bacteria that is indigenous to your ponds.

Welcome aboard LTW, I would invite any and all questions about beneficial bacteria,bio-stimulants nutrient management that anyone may have be directed at LTW your AquaFix Connection. AquaFix is also a sponsor of the forum and PondBoss Magazine and I find too often we dont get to ask our questions directly.This is a great oportunity to better understand the subject. AquaFix has vast knowledge of ponds,lakes and wastewater situations and provides extensive lab work and solutions. Ask Away !! and again thanks for joining " Ask The Boss"

Welcome LTW!

Two questions:

Is it ok if I put the Aquafix Polar in the shallows where I assume the water temperature will be outside of the optimum range for the bacteria? Will the bacteria die if the water is colder than 41 degrees? I don't aerate in the winter so there isn't any water movement that I'm aware of.

Are there any storage requirements temperature wise?

Just thought of a third question for anyone with an answer. Is there something I can make to place in my pond before it freezes to provide easy access to the water? I've seen hydrants placed in ponds for fire departments but don't they freeze? I always wondered about that.