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Re: Working on a .5acre disaster, I mean pond.
Boondoggle
5 minutes ago
How far away is the better spot to build a pond that has the proper drainage/watershed?
I think I would investigate putting the pond in the right spot vs buying a liner and then having to do additional work on top of it to hope and pray there's enough water after the additional changes are made. Use your current hole in the ground for some of the spoils and move on from there.
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Re: Relative weight charts in Excel ? Calculations?
esshup
10 minutes ago
No big issue, I just didn't understand why an excel (or similar) chart was needed because I don't use my phone or computer when in the boat. Too big of a chance of it going swimming.
Getting a weight between the lines is easy. Simple math.
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Re: Fungus infection on fish
nvcdl
26 minutes ago
I had a rash of fungus infected fish a couple years ago. Seemed to be caused when I over fertilized the pond but there wasn't enough alkalinity for a bloom.
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Re: 1 year after stocking question
esshup
1 hour ago
How many more bluegill and forage fish would I need to support the predator fish? See my post above your question. That is where my answer is. Look at the ratio I put there. The bigger number is the number of bluegill you should have stocked for every LMB. Here's some math for you. A single LMB needs to eat 10# of forage fish to gain 1# in weight. That's when they are young and small. As they grow in age and weight they need to eat more and more fish per year just to survive, and way more fish to put on 1 pound in weight. Think of a human. How many calories do you need to eat per day to stay the same, vs how many calories a baby needs to eat to stay the same weight? Fish are no different. A LMB needs fish to eat that are roughly 1/4 to 1/3 it's body length or it's wasting too many calories chasing down smaller fish to eat. A LMB does NOT catch a fish every time it tries to, so that is more wasted calories. You stocked 75 2"-4" LMB. At that size, they need fish in the 5/8"- 1.3" range to eat. As they grow the fish they need to eat have to be proportionately larger. Bluegill that are 1"-2.5" in length weigh 3-9 pounds per thousand fish. Bluegill that are 2.5"-2.75" weigh 10-14 pounds per thousand. Bluegill that are 2.75"-3.5" weigh 15-24 pounds per thousand. So, with that information you should be able to do the math and figure out how many fish you need to add, and what size they need to be..
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Re: Alum vs Bentonite/Lathanum for Phosphorus Removal?
FishinRod
2 hours ago
esshup (and others),
Is there any type of emergent shallow water plants that can be used to take up P during the growing season, and then cut back in the fall with the plant material removed from the pond basin so that the nutrients are NOT recycled into a hypereutrophic pond?
(I was just thinking that if you lowered the pond in the fall to remove the tilapia, you could also cut some plants at the same time.)
Chemistry, plus tilapia, plus plants might be an effective three-pronged approach to get up to "drinking" water level?
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Re: New 2 acre pond stocking plan
LANGSTER
2 hours ago
Herons will destroy a pond and eat your fish, I have had them kill bass and not even eat them just kill them. Destructive birds and they sure are not endangered like vultures they are way to many of them. .17 hmr works nice and quite
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Re: Brooder Shiners and Fry, What to do??
Freg
8 hours ago
Per the recommendations of others in this thread, I think my game plan is that once I get a hatch I will transfer at least 100 out of the 130 brooders to my main pond as well as most of the fry. If I never get shiners established in my main pond that's okay, I just wanted to have a way of breeding the shiners to at least supplementally stock into the pond as an additional food source.
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Re: Reducing fish biomass
FishinRod
10 hours ago
One of my buddies in med school did a research project where he had to pith the fish and then take the samples immediately after the fish died. It was the same method.
He was a VERY precise guy, and is now an eye surgeon, so I suspect he got it exactly right every time.
I suspect I might miss every now and then, but I believe it is considered one on the most humane methods to euthanize research animals. Like our "taste" experiment, you typically don't want stress chemicals in your research animal tissues.
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Re: Questions and Feedback on SMB
Donatello
Yesterday at 08:10 PM
Last year just feed a low quality food periodically 4-5 times a week, Plan on High Quality feed with Automatic feeder this Spring. Just a "Broke Teacher" here, Thanks guys, I try to keep my eye on it closely. There have been some Hiccups, but things are headed in the right direction.
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Re: New YP/SMB Pond in MI - Plan
FishinRod
03/26/24 03:55 PM
I meant just a deep hole (lined or unlined) right at your drain outlet.
It serves two purposes. You can draw down your water and concentrate all of your fish in the sump. That way it is easy for you to pick good broodstock to save, sample the sizes of your fish, select for males or females, etc.
The other purpose is to collect the junk that will get in your pond specifically to pi$$ you off and clog your drain. With a sump installed, you can start flowing some water and most of the leaves, pine needles, etc. will collect in the sump and you can more easily scoop them out to keep your drain running and clean the bottom of your pond.
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Re: Carta Valley, Texas area - Questions
FireIsHot
03/26/24 03:13 PM
DeerTexas,
...Finally, the size of the pond is not the sole controlling factor to avoid going dry during droughts. The pond actually needs to be "right sized" for the watershed area that drains into the pond combined with the annual rainfall amount. (That is only the first approximation. The slope of the land, cover vegetation, soil type and permeability, and several other factors are also important.) If your pond is too small for your drainage area, then a big rain can blow out your dam. If your pond is too large, then it will only be full during the peak of the rainy season, and will be low or dry during drought periods... I'm not familiar with the Del Rio area, but I have spent some time in the Rio Grande/LaJitas area. Rod's correct about how rain can hit hard and heavy between droughts, and potentially blow out a pond. If possible, I'd avoid a slope for the pond, and try to build it on a low flat area. The same with water shed. A wide water shed can provide the same volume of water without getting pinched, and potentially causing funneled damage.
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