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Joined: Aug 2002
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Well my pond may be an exception but I would swear on a bible I had them originally growing in five feet of water!
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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My best method for managing cattails is prevention. Whenever I see the first one or two plants they come out. For complete control, I think the trick is to pull out the first one or two early invaders. The first invading cattails ALWAYS begin growth at the waters edge or only a couple inches deep. Obviously this means patroling the shoreline on a monthly basis. Pay attention to what is growing along the shore while you are harassing the fish. A walk around the pond perimeter is good excercise.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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I have just reread all this and am belatedly adding the fact that my cattails have been easily curtailed to the list of things I am thankful for.
"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever." -S. M. Stirling
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I have mixed emotions about cattails.
They are a fish magnet and good cover for forage fish – however, I’ve yet to convince my son of this fact and he’s the one that has to do the hard work to control them….
I am concerned that GC and tilapia will over-control the pond vegetation, but with this years explosion of pond weed, now well controlled, maybe not…
I guess I’m swimming against the tide – but I think they add a natural look to a pond, as long as they are restricted to local shallow water areas – which they are.
Restricts fishing from the pond bank in some spawning areas, which may not be all bad.
Does anyone else share this opinion? George Glazener
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George, I think you are right on target, One persons desireable plant is another ones pesky weed.I have had days where we removed them from one pond for a customer only to plant them in another pond the same day.Cattails will not over run a pond overnight, like Bill states keep an eye on them and they are fairly easy to keep under control.If they are out of control to start seems to be some good ways posted to get them under control.
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George :
I agree with your thought process/conclusions but have different facts in our ponds. With little bank fishing and remote location and larger ponds and limited shallow water the cattails are just to invasive to stay. Manual removal alone could get to be to big a job quickly so I opt to keep them out altogether. I do like the way they look and would let them grow in the proper pond/place. A few came up at one pond and we liked the visual effect so they were allowed to overwinter and summer. That was a mistake as they spread to many locations with the potential to take over to high a % of the shallow water spawning area. ewest
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Hello, Everyone. I'm new to this forum. I recently acquired property with an eight acre lake on it. Cattails have taken over 85% of the shoreline and form a six foot deep band in some places so thick you can't get to the water. Would like to start by removing cattails completely near the house and docks and proceed from there. Winter season now. The cattails have turned brown. When pulling them, the plants break easily and no longer pull the bulbs or roots out. I just bought an underwater weed rake/cutter. I've read mixed reports here. Will cutting the plants underwater at this time of year help keep them from coming back? Tempted to have them dug out with an excavator but that huge job would disturb the bank edges so much. Dogs drink the lake water and we swim in it in the summer-- reluctant to use Habitat for those reasons... Ideas? Thanks. --Gadgetnut
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Gadgetnut : Habitat is approved for aquatic use and livstock use and swimming are not restricted , see the label link below pg.3 which so states. Those concerns should be ok. We use our ponds the same way as you and no problems as long as you follow the label. IMHO with that many cattails you will have a hard time with them unless you use a chem. treatment or a backhoe to dig them up. ewest http://www.willapabay.org/~coastal/nospartina/control_program/HabitatLabel.pdf
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Ewest,
Who can we order Habitat from and does it require a surfactant? I'm not seeing it in any of my catalogs.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Cecil, I realize this one was not directed my way but try Aquatic Controls Matt Johnson 800-753-LAKE in Indiana for Habitat as they service Ohio,Indiana,Ill,Ken,Miss and yes it needs a surfactant, Comes in quarts or 2.5 gallon for the big problems.Lists for approx $71.25 per qt.They are listed in TheBoss.
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gadgetnut,
A different view....if money is not a major issue, then go with the excavation. Don't just get the cattails however, go to the clay removing all the muck and sediment that cattails love to live in. That should solve the problem long term so that any future uprisings could be handled by spot treatments. I'm not a pro on this topic, just a pond lover like you that does not use chemicals unless it's a last resort. I fear that the chemical approach, while it will work one season, will need to be re-applied again and again over time. If cost is an issue, chemicals may be your only choice, however.
Doing the excavation will, in addition, make your pond much more usable for all kinds of activities.
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CB1 :
Ted gave you the answer. I agree. One quart will kill a lot of cattails and willows and other plants. I estimate an acre. I did not use a commercial suff. but sprayed a mix of soap + water + habitat on the cattails in a mid-range application and was very cautious about what was sprayed. It worked well but probably would work better with suff. Also I was treating a small area of cattails about 100 squ. ft.( 50 x 2 ) along the dam and a few small patches here and there around the pond. Also some willows which it also worked well on. It worked and just in time before they spread further. As stated earlier be careful as it will kill a lot of plants ,grasses and trees. ewest
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gadgetnut, ML offers you the best of both ways as the longterm control on cats is yet to be seen in real world conditions.You may get 75-90 % with a track hoe and as ML suggests get rid of years of organic matter and deepen the shallow areas some. Obviously this will cost more money in the short term but consider how long you plan on having this pond and it may cash flow better using the average year cost basis vs a onetime hit.Lets say you go the Habitat route and had 2500 to 3000 ft total shoreline to treat at a 10 ft band(again this is a guess based on 8 acres)you would only be treating between .6 and .7 of an acre total, About $100.00 for Habitat. Be sure any products used are labeled in your state.Good Luck
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