Meadowlark,
On a big dozer a 4" log would be a squishy bump.
The small dozers buck worse and are a little harder to run. They don't get stuck as bad and that could be a big plus.
Mercury,
I'd suggest starting on a outside edge when you start digging. Take it down 3 or 4 feet. If you see in the slope any seams of gravel or material you don't like, dig out the bad spot now and pack good material back in. Pack in the rest of the slope if you care to. Dress this slope up and call it done. Now go down another 3 or 4 feet and do the same thing matching this slope into the part above that you have already "finished".
Do the same thing to both sides and when you get down to where you want to be the sides are done.
I like to keep it lower towards the dam so I'm loading the blade going downhill a little. Don't end up getting lower in the back and have to try to load the blade going uphill.
The 2 basic dozing techniques are slot pushing and cornering. Slot pushing works better in looser materials the tend to "run" off the sides of the blade. Just keep working down in the same track letting the windrows build up on each side to hold in the dirt. Cornering start on one side and dig down about a quarter of a dozer blade deep. Then stay at this depth and corner into this ledge taking a narrow cut with the side of the blade. Most operators work from right to left.
Hey Jersey, did that cost extra?
