Advanced auto parts!! LOL!!! I kid you not. It's a mini K&N filter for like a lawn mower or a mini bike... that and a band clamp and your good to go buddy!!
RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
Got the Gast pump wired up. No hoses or diffusers attached yet! Got a 4 way manifold with valves. With only 1 open it seems to pump only a small amount of air. Is this normal? I know there is no resistance on the pump yet. Normal?
"only a small amount of air" how are you defining small amount? Is the pump new or used? A used pump may need new vanes which is why it might have been sold as a used pump. Do you have a good low pressure gauge (30psi) on the pump? PSI should easily build to 15-20psi. Do not completely restrict the air flow to cause 30+psi or the carbon vanes could break which is why we install an adjustable pressure relief valve.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 06/27/1607:13 PM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
I would change a couple of things with that setup:
1) Swap that gauge for a liquid filled gauge that reads 30 psi max. You should be only using the 0-7 psi range of the gauge and that 100 psi gauge won't give you a fine enough reading. Plus that gauge is not liquid filled and the needle will be bouncing all over the place. The liquid is to dampen the needle oscillations.
2) I would run a piece of rubber hose from the gauge to the manifold. The way you have it there is a lot of weight (relatively speaking) on the fittings as they are plumbed now, especially the 90° fitting out of the pump. It will most likely crack over time due to the vibration from the pump. Make a bracket and bolt the manifold to it, isolating it from the pump by the rubber hose to reduce stress on the connections.
Esshup is right, LB sorry I didn't mention that with the gauge. If you look back at my pic my gauge is from Bill Cody it's a liquid filled 30psi gauge. 100 is way to high like esshup said it will never register. I wonder if you could maybe zip tie a small 2x2 or 1x1 under that manifold for support? Just zip tie it around the wood and around the manifold itself to keep it from bending down eventually...
RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
Your pump is a model without the quite running head so it will sound noisy compared to others but it should function okay. Try this, take off the valve manifold and check to see if strong air flow comes out of the nipple after the gauge. If yes, there is an air blockage in the manifold. Or unscrew everything off the pump and verify you have strong air flow directly out of the pump. Note do not completely block all the air coming out of the pump. If it were mine, I would have a pressure relief valve installed before or after the air gauge as low cost insurance to protect the pump from over pressurizing and breaking the vanes. New vanes can be around $15-18 ea, there are 4 in that pump.
The sticker on the pump says it is wired for 220. Make sure you are running it at 220V or that it has been rewired for 110-115V operation.
If all the above checks are okay you and still have very little air that comes out of the outlet port. I would take off the front plate(aka face plate) by removing the 6 bolts and check to see if all 4 of the carbon vanes manually move/slide freely in the rotor slots. Reassemble and again check air flow.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 06/28/1608:50 AM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
That pump as I understand can run either 110 or 220. I am running it 110 now. I just found a different pressure gauge 30 psi max and will try that tonight.
The 1/4hp Marathon motor on that pump can run 110 or 220 but it has to have the wires switched in the back of the motor according to the wiring diagram and chart on the motor. The 0523 comes wired 220 from the factory and needs to have wires moved for 110 operation. This is likely your problem. On that motor I have to move the brown and white wires for running it 110. PM me if you need help changing the wiring.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 06/28/1601:55 PM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
Just an update hopefully with pics. System is running great so far. Got the system on a timer and up to 4 hours a night. FWIW, I also put a nite lite inside the housing unit so I could tell when the system turns on and off. Still got three more lines to run to the shallow diffusers ....but that will be in the spring. Water looks better than it ever has at this point in the summer! Thanks to all that helped..... cause i'm sure new to this!