Yeah that's the air inlet filter and IMO that one looks like a weak link in your setup. Doesn't matter how good your compressor is if it is starved for air. I bought a replacement assembly from one of the members here that he designed himself and uses inexpensive lawn mower filter elements (about $3 each). The filter that came with my setup was small and replacement elements were $12. The new one has way more surface area. If you want more info on the one I bought, shoot me a PM and I will give you the members name.
Get a better pic of the white tag in this shot where it says motor. I can't make it out.
Also, with the wires loose like this, as well as on my compressor and LL's, they are intended to be mounted in an electrical rated enclosure. The people that sold this would not know this, but you can not have the capacitor and wiring exposed in a DIY compressor box. Sorry, but I don't write NEC code.
If you use a DIY compressor box like most that build decent ones, you could get away with a low cost NEMA 1 enclosure with a couple vents for air flow.
OK Guy's and Gals, if you get a compressor like this that has an external capacitor, not protected with a cover integral to the motor, and loose wires that do not terminate in a wiring box ON the motor or come with an integral power cord, they MUST BE mounted in a NEMA rated electrical enclosure, or a UL listed assembly, which they were originally intended for.
Mines been in this for three years. I have the bottom cut out where the exhaust on the pump is and holes drilled on the side with mesh wire for fresh inlet air.
Get a better pic of the white tag in this shot where it says motor. I can't make it out.
Also, with the wires loose like this, as well as on my compressor and LL's, they are intended to be mounted in an electrical rated enclosure. The people that sold this would not know this, but you can not have the capacitor and wiring exposed in a DIY compressor box. Sorry, but I don't write NEC code.
If you use a DIY compressor box like most that build decent ones, you could get away with a low cost NEMA 1 enclosure with a couple vents for air flow.
OK Guy's and Gals, if you get a compressor like this that has an external capacitor, not protected with a cover integral to the motor, and loose wires that do not terminate in a wiring box ON the motor, they MUST BE mounted in a NEMA rated electrical enclosure, or a UL listed assembly, which they were originally intended for.
If I didn't mention this...
here is the tag, im lost on the enclosure your talking about.
Both black wires hook up to the capacitor with the female terminals onto the males, so plug one into one side and the other, on the other. Not polarity sensitive, so just get one on one set of spades, and the other, on the other set.
Brown and Blue wires hook up to your line power. That would be the 120V from your circuit breaker, so pick one you want to be neutral and the other you want to have the CB on. Usually Blue is neutral and Brown is juice, but it don't matter because these wire colors are not technically in any code and it's single phase alternating current. Six of one, half a dozen of another, can't screw it up.
I'll have to fill you all in on the enclosures you should be using for all this loose wiring, now that someone actually want's to do it correct.
Both black wires hook up to the capacitor with the female terminals onto the males, so plug one into one side and the other, on the other. Not polarity sensitive, so just get one on one set of spades, and the other, on the other set.
Brown and Blue wires hook up to your line power. That would be the 120V from your circuit breaker, so pick one you want to be neutral and the other you want to have the CB on. Usually Blue is neutral and Brown is juice, but it don't matter because these wire colors are not technically in any code and it's single phase alternating current. Six of one, half a dozen of another, can't screw it up.
I'll have to fill you all in on the enclosures you should be using for all this loose wiring, now that someone actually want's to do it correct.
Thx, and yes I want to do it correctly unless it means spending a fortune on a box.
You also originally mentioned using the correct breaker for the motor plate?
I would temporarily hook up the compressor to see how the exposed fans move air. Which direction is it pushing out of, or if the fans are opposed pushing air thru the motor, or drawing it out.
Is there a threaded boss on the compressor, or some place you can hook the ground wire to?
Here's what I did. I wanted a little storage space as well so it is bigger than need be. It's built elevated for ease of maintenance, to keep the pump up out of water (standing water can occur in this area of my property) and to keep critters from burrowing underneath to make homes. To insure good ventilation, the floor is constructed with spaces between each board and the side walls only go up as far as required to get under the eaves. BTW, you can buy small pump enclosures with ventilation fans built in. You can see an enclosure like that in my pics actually sitting inside the pump house.
Bill, I like your cabinet a lot. I think I will go this direction but mine will have to be totally enclosed around here or I will have wasp nests galore.
I would temporarily hook up the compressor to see how the exposed fans move air. Which direction is it pushing out of, or if the fans are opposed pushing air thru the motor, or drawing it out.
Is there a threaded boss on the compressor, or some place you can hook the ground wire to?
I can find a way to ground it I am sure. As far as the original issue with the correct breaker based on the motor plate, what would you recommend?
Bill, I like your cabinet a lot. I think I will go this direction but mine will have to be totally enclosed around here or I will have wasp nests galore.
Dave
Dave,
I worried about wasps as well but so far no sign of them in the pump house. I find nests lots of other places though!
I wonder if they don't like the vibrations when the compressor is running or maybe don't like the cedar siding???
IMHO However you do it, make sure you have good ventilation.
I would temporarily hook up the compressor to see how the exposed fans move air. Which direction is it pushing out of, or if the fans are opposed pushing air thru the motor, or drawing it out.
Is there a threaded boss on the compressor, or some place you can hook the ground wire to?
I can find a way to ground it I am sure. As far as the original issue with the correct breaker based on the motor plate, what would you recommend?
Dave
With a PSC motor, I would not go heavy on the trip curve as inrush current is rather low. UL-489 rated 6 amp with a "C" trip curve should work well. 6A CB
Would be nice to get a 5.5A, but they don't make them. This will instantly trip if it sees 30 amps, then in less than one second the curve kicks in, which is time-temp dependent.
Circuit/device protection is fairly complicated to explain due to the myriad of devices and laws in place and available.
A customer had a brand new 1/4hp 115V single phase motor on a rig. They tried to start it and smoke was coming out, so they shut it off quick. It had built in thermal protection, which by design should have tripped within 10 seconds, as with all thermal protection by law. Went there and hooked up meters. Kicked it on for a couple seconds, saw smoke, meter said it was eating 32 amps. If we waited for the thermal protection to wake up and kick in, motor would have been melted. Motor was way too small for what they wanted it to do. Temporarily hooked up the correct CB to it to show them, and every time they tried to start it under the overload conditions it instantly tripped. Pulled the motor off the load and all was cool. I can stop/stall a 1/4 hp motor with my hand like I'm sure most can, but wear leather gloves. Put the squeeze on it and had them watch the meter on how the amps climb way over SF (Service Factor), but the thermal overloads were still sleeping. Should have tripped, but they didn't. CB caught it way before damaging overload and tripped.
I would temporarily hook up the compressor to see how the exposed fans move air. Which direction is it pushing out of, or if the fans are opposed pushing air thru the motor, or drawing it out.
Is there a threaded boss on the compressor, or some place you can hook the ground wire to?
I can find a way to ground it I am sure. As far as the original issue with the correct breaker based on the motor plate, what would you recommend?
Dave
With a PSC motor, I would not go heavy on the trip curve as inrush current is rather low. UL-489 rated 6 amp with a "C" trip curve should work well. 6A CB
Would be nice to get a 5.5A, but they don't make them. This will instantly trip if it sees 30 amps, then in less than one second the curve kicks in, which is time-temp dependent.
Circuit/device protection is fairly complicated to explain due to the myriad of devices and laws in place and available.
A customer had a brand new 1/4hp 115V single phase motor on a rig. They tried to start it and smoke was coming out, so they shut it off quick. It had built in thermal protection, which by design should have tripped within 10 seconds, as with all thermal protection by law. Went there and hooked up meters. Kicked it on for a couple seconds, saw smoke, meter said it was eating 32 amps. If we waited for the thermal protection to wake up and kick in, motor would have been melted. Motor was way too small for what they wanted it to do. Temporarily hooked up the correct CB to it to show them, and every time they tried to start it under the overload conditions it instantly tripped. Pulled the motor off the load and all was cool. I can stop/stall a 1/4 hp motor with my hand like I'm sure most can, but wear leather gloves. Put the squeeze on it and had them watch the meter on how the amps climb way over SF (Service Factor), but the thermal overloads were still sleeping. Should have tripped, but they didn't. CB caught it way before damaging overload and tripped.
Yeah, I know I'm a prick, but I don't need you to agree with me.
Carry On...
Hey JKB, Is that breaker something I can GET IN A SIEMENS breaker? Thats the type panel I have.
You won't find this type of CB that will fit in any of the typical home style load center breaker panels, as they simply don't make them.
The intent here is device level protection, secondary to your main breaker panel. 15 amp breaker in your main panel feeding the branch circuit your compressor is on. This CB goes between your main breaker and the motor.
As I tried, but failed to explain before, is your compressor, as well as mine are appliance devices. Original intent was to be used inside of an appliance, like maybe a vending machine or some other gizmo... Who really knows the initial intent. But, inside of that gizmo, you most likely would have device level protection on the compressor, as well as other devices in the assembly.
Me thinks I should not have brought this subject up.
First off I want to apologize to RUMBLON for getting off-topic!
Regarding the olives, you won't see me "really into it", I'll be lucky just to choke them down without up-chucking on camera.
A fun challenge between you and I, Phil since initially you had me eating these while on Lake Michigan, which in that regard I think we're all lucky that didn't happen! So we'll leave it at that.
BTW, I figured if I got the jumbo olives only a few would fit in my very, very small hands
Understanding, and the fact you bought a jar of Olives for the challenge... Never opened... Enjoy the next two years
JKB's right that I bought jar of olives, picture proof sent to him a few days after the challenge, and that I was (albeit reluctantly) serious about accepting his challenge.
Then the procrastination set in, the jar of olives still sitting on the counter, which I have seen every day since buying them, wondering when and how I will take this on.
I realize this issue is just taking up space on the forum, because as it stands, I'm currently the only one I know who doesn't like olives. And it's the only food besides those little Vienna Wieners that my brain (and everything below it) seems to reject.
Then yesterday I get this PM from Phil (JKB):
Originally Posted By: JKB
Good sport, so got you a 2 year renewal. Enjoy.
Followed by a personal phone call from Phil, a great chat about the Steelhead being caught on the same river we fly-fished on, and my gratitude for his unmerited generosity, I knew at that point I had been incentivized! (Although again he says I don't have to go through with it)
So Phil, in true PBF gratitude, thank you again for the 2 year renewal!
The GoPro battery is on the charger and with my son coming over tomorrow for his birthday, I'll have him do the filming which I know he will take great pleasure in
Don't want you to OD now, but seeing that it is a daily recommendation, we should see that whole jar gone in short order
BTW, I've been working on a low cost rig that people can install in their compressor houses that will offer a higher level of motor protection. I'll order parts next week and check them out. This should make it easy.
I'LL call device protection a dead issue here. Just keep in mind that you can grenade a compressor and smoke it, or overheat it under too much load, or undervoltage and smoke your investment that way.
Just trying to help, but I can't understand it for you.
Just finished mine a couple weeks ago. Thanks for all the help from those on this forum.
Nice job on your system
I have been building and doing other big projects. I now have my system here including four difussers and a manifold to split it into four that I just built today.
So now I need to build my housing and build a difusser base for one (1) difusser each that will sink?