Originally Posted By: esshup
Just like building a motor, you have to get parts/pieces that work with each other. No sense throwing on Edelbrock Performer Intake mated to a 950 cfm Ultra XP carb, a high lift roller cam and a 5500 rpm stall converter.

Just like you have to research parts to go together, you have to research compressors and diffusers. If the place where you are buying the parts from cannot tell you the specs on those parts, and you cannot find the specs on those particular parts somewhere on-line, move on to a supplier that can tell you that information.

How many cfm does the pump put out at what psi? How many cfm does the diffuser need to work at what psi? More importantly, how many gpm does the diffuser move at the installed depth?

To correctly design the system, you need to know how many gallons of water are in your pond, and design the system so it turns the pond over at least once per day. i.e. brings the total pond volume of water to the surface once per day (during the summer).

Make sure the air line that you use is long enough and big enough I.D. for the application too. 1/2" I.D. (or 5/8" I.D.) is the most common. Self Sink tubing for in the pond is recommended.

For winter aeration, have the diffuser in 1/4 to 1/3 the total pond depth, close enough to shore to allow anything that might go in the water to get footing on the pond bottom and crawl out of the pond without having to crawl up on the ice if at all possible. You want to keep 10% or so of the pond surface area open in the winter.


Thanks, but Im talking about the valve box to switch from summer to winter diffusers? is that one part in its self or something I can build?

Dave