What professionals often do when rebuilding a pond and dealing with damp or still wet slop is to mix dry dirt with it so it can be pushed or lifted. Don't get stuck in that wet stuff,, it can be deceiving and sticky. Maybe after the pond is drained, let it dry out for at least a week. A week of warm sunny breezy weather can cause a lot of drying of wet sediments. My advice is keep your banks steep down to 6-8 ft or the bottom on some shorelines to minimize weed growths. Create a ledge 3-5 ft deep to hold stone, rocks, broken concrete from rolling all the way to the bottom. FYI - Flat spots or humps 6-8 ft deep with clear water can easily grow submerged weeds if the water has visibility of 3-4ft which is good clarity for a SMB pond. Line downwind shorelines with rocks or broken cement from contractors. Cement contractors are good guys to know when looking for rip rap. Minimize flat shallow areas unless you want weedy mossy nursery areas with wetland type vegetation. Maybe one or two small areas (5% max 2000sqft) per acre.
When you rebuild the dam make doubly sure it is well packed. Maybe even mix some bentonite packed in with the dirt esp on the dam face. I suggest that you rip-rap the dam face at least a few feet above and esp below at the waterline. Stone, riprap covered shorelines down to 3-5 ft below high water line reduce wind erosion and discourage muskrat-nutria from digging burrows.
Others may disagree and are welcome to add input.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 08/11/12 03:57 PM.
