OK Brettski, here we go.
Concept I'm proposing is to use a "servo tester" to run the model servo, which will have an extension on the servo output arm to obtain the full 2.75 inch throw required. A model airplane engine throttle cable and ball link control system will be your flex link from the servo to the choke lever.
To make it remote, you'll make an "extension cord" to run from the house to the miniature nuke power plant at pond-side by cutting the output wires from the servo tester and splicing in fairly large guage wire, run it out to the power generating station. Then hook up the other end, into which the servo will be plugged. I recommend maybe number 12 or so wire just to keep the voltage drop as low as possible. If the servo is too weak or slow, add another cell to the tester to compensate.
Thinking about it as I type, a better way would be to buy a servo extension cable like this one
http://www.cheapyharnesses.com/page04.html and you can solder it onto the " big extension cable" and then you wouldn't need to modify the servo driver at all and void the warranty. That way only a couple of bucks would be at stake.
Your need to operate either locally or by remote could be solved by just unplugging the servo driver and taking out to the power generating station building, buying off the security guard to gain access, and then plugging it in out at the site to control things from there.
Vibration is a problem, but the same is true in model airplanes and soft mounting methods are possible to minimize but not eliminate the effects of rattling back & forth for hours on end. The best protection is to consider the servos are only around $10 so when (not if) one of them packs in, it won't be total financial disaster.
The length of flex cable selected will allow you to mount the servo in a location where vibration is at a minimum. The only problem with using flex cable is the long throw required ... 2.75" might be long enough the cable bows out rather than moving the control at full throw. If that's the case, I'll show you a stiff pushrod to use.
Choke position. Look at this link and you'll see the knob on the tester has a number scale. That can be plotted to use as a guide to "where you're at."
http://graphics.hobbypeople.net/gallery/518105.jpgSo away we go with the links:
1- the servo tester from Tower Hobbies. A large, reputable supplier for all things RC.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVK79&P=ML2- the "standard size" model servo can found on EBay for $7 each or cheaper, here's the "expensive version" for 9.99
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUK84 3- flex cable for the linkage
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD862&P=74- control cable ends & mini ball-links
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFPW8&P=7http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD897&P=7Hope that is helpful Brettski.
Sorry I wasn't able to involve any rebar, diesel locomotives, slaves that built the pyramids, or concrete in this solution!
Lee
