Hi Forum,
It's been a while since I've been to this forum and now I have a few questions.

I guess the first one is aimed toward the admin here. Since I joined this forum originally, I've moved from Florida to Alabama, making my username, PondmaninFL, not fit anymore. Now I need it to be PondmaninAL. Can it be changed?

The other questions(s) are for any Alabama pond owners. I would like to know your experiences with your pond(s). What problems you had and you did to fix it.

Displayed name can be changed; IIRC login name stays the same.

You want it changed?

The displayed name will do. I couldn't find where to do it myself or can it only be done by admin?

You have to be a Moderator, PondmaninAL.

Pondman, you may address the question to the general area of the southeast. Only imaginary lines separate say L.A. from Fla panhandle, West Al. from E. Miss., East Al. from W. Ga.,etc., except of course during football season.
Seriously, do you have any specific issues to ask about that you are having? Or, are you just planning and want to know any pitfalls you may encounter?

Burger, since you so badly want my name changed to CopperNose... Here's my chance! HAHA

agree with burger whatcha need?

First of all, thank you Theo. That works for me.

Now for the rest.

Burger, I thought Alabama was the SE during football season.

I'm just looking for what problems you ran into during construction. Was there any kind of seepage problems. How do you make a dirt bottom pond hold water? I'm more experienced with lined ponds, such as water gardens and goldfish ponds but now that my wife and I have moved back to Alabama, we are looking for land here that we can buy when we both get working. I want to do a big dirt bottom pond to grow water lilies and different kinds of marginals in. That is basically what I'm looking for.

You're welcome.

Pondman, water is always looking for a way to escape your pond, be it over, under the dam, out the sides, or seeping thru the bottom, PLUS lots of evaporation. Open up the pond construction topics and go to reading. Basics are, cored, layered, and packed dam. Packing after each layering. Lots of clay mixed with soil spread out on bottom and compressed with sheepsfoot packer. Dont forget the sides, especially if any of the side walls seem sandy. That's what I am dealing with now. Only one side is sandy and is adjacent to a stand of trees. Not a good thing for maintaining water level.

Welcome; you will get lots of good info here.

It does seem that AL. may become the SE again during football season. Did you actually move back, or did Alabama annex your town to get dibs on the next stud linebacker?

Key is well built core compacted properly and the pond itself build in an area of clay. Most of Alabama has godo red clay but if in LA you may have to go to ridge top to "borrow" the clay to line the podn and build the core of the dam. Find a good pond builder in your area.

I think Alabama is more lieniant on the use of dynamite,if that helps.

Take a look at the Pond Boss book store: http://www.pondboss.com/books.html

Consider buying "Perfect Pond... Want one?" which I personally own and think is excellent. There are also several other earthen pond related books in the store as well. They should be a great start.

Also, seek out your local NRCS agent. Some are not very helpful but others can be a complete goldmine of free information and help.

Thanks guys, y'all are being really helpful. One more question before I go start buying books. So, regular red clay will work? I don't need something like sodium bentonite to do the job?

One way to test it would be to take a 5 gallon bucket. Drill some 1/4" or larger holes in the bottom. Put an inch or so sand in the bottom, then pack 6"-8" of the red clay on top of that. Fill up the rest of the bucket with water and see how it holds.

The sand on the bottom isn't really needed, but I think it would give a better representation of what you're trying to accomplish when you're compacting the pond bottom.

If you wanted to do a couple of tests, try packing the clay in by hand and see how it works. Try the same test in another bucket but this time put 3" or 4" of clay in it packing tightly by hand, then take a basebal bat or something similar and pack it tightly by ramming the end of the bat into the clay. Pack another 3"-4" on top of the first layer and pack it again. Re-test. If there is a marked difference in the water loss rate, that would show you how different packing techniques change the end results. (i.e. sheepsfoot roller vs. packing with a bucket or just driving over the pond bottom)

Thanks esshup.

Esshup always gives good advice. Red clay will work just fine. if it is used on the dam above water line, it will be mixed with some topsoil to keep it from cracking upon drying. It needs to be just the right amount of moisture for it to pack well. A good, reputable, experienced dirt guy will know.
Read all you can before talking to them, so you can be better informed and know what to ask, and how to respond to their verbage.

Yes I agree with BUrger, no enough to find the right guy for the job. YOu can not replace the expereience of local working in the soils for years.

Being well prepared is my goal. That's why I have decided to become more active on PB, well, at least spend more time here than I have in the past.